One such rising star is Emma Mortimer – Huddersfield-born tailor and former finalist in the prestigious Golden Shears Contest. Here, we chat to Emma about her tailoring journey so far and who has inspired her to cut a path in this challenging, revered and endlessly exciting industry…

Where did your tailoring journey begin?

I’ve held an interest in creating garments from a very early age – particularly in making them fit the form of individual wearers. From the age of four, I was bringing home items of clothing or shoes I had fashioned myself!

Where did you study?

I studied at Sheffield Hallam University, where I received a Masters in Fashion Design. Prior to this, I was a student at Bath Spa University.However, when it came to building the foundation of my tailoring career, my most valuable experience was gained outside my education – it was by acquiring hands-on experience through interning at tailoring houses alongside my studies, that I was able to establish contacts within the field.I’ve learned a lot from practicing in an array of different places – ranging from short courses at Newham College to working in a local tailors. All these experiences have helped me to develop the fundamental knowledge that underpins my career today.

Who inspired you to become a tailor?

I’d definitely have to say that I owe a lot to my friend and former university tutor, David Morrish. He is the one who really introduced me to the world of bespoke tailoring, and supported me throughout my education to help me reach where I am today. Without his expert guidance, I’m not sure I would have managed to progress in the same way. For instance, he introduced me to the Golden Shears Contest – in which I was a finalist in 2015 – and it was from there that I realised this was the career path for me.I’m from Huddersfield – the home of fine worsted cloth – and there’s a huge textiles heritage that surrounds the area. The town is world-renowned within the industry, so I’ve always felt connected to this line of work. Although I don’t come from a tailoring background, my grandmother was a skilled mender of cloth. I remember being fascinated by the level of skill and patience required to produce such seamless and beautiful work, and I still admire her for that.

If you weren’t a tailor, what would you be?

If I wasn’t in this specific line of work, I’d probably have chosen something more related to fashion design – particularly menswear.

Which designers do you most admire?

Paul Smith – I love his attitude to design. The way he injects wit through his bold use of colour and pattern sits well against the way his garments are cut. Agi & Sam are a duo that I particularly admire, again for their playful approach to design in their pieces. And Aitor Throup too, because of his insight and creative vision – his garments are works of art, and he has such a fresh approach to the way in which he designs.

Who is your style inspiration?

When it comes to menswear style, it has to be Jimmy Q – otherwise known as James Edward Quaintance III. As a professional skateboarder, tattoo artist, model and musician, his playful style is a refreshing take on a more refined look – which he achieves through well-cut garments.

What is your business motto?

We are still guided by the original Dugdale Bros motto – “With pride, with passion, with integrity.”

How do you make contacts which are useful for business?

As a more mature cloth business, we have a well-developed global network of agents and distributors that we have built great relationships with over the years. When it comes to non-core business contacts, we look for local rising stars – for example, we brought Scriba on board to look after our PR, and Digital Velocity to handle our fully transactional website.

What makes your business different?

The balance between tradition and youth. Our fine worsted cloth is a tremendous product, which the town is famed for throughout the world, but our sales function is now handled by younger key members of staff.

As the ‘elder statesmen’, our MD Simon Glendenning and I are still only in our 50s, so even though we uphold the traditional side of the brand, we are still a long way from feeling old!

What do you always have with you?

My Saint Christopher medal that was given to me by my mother, before she sadly passed away. It keeps me safe while travelling the world.

Do you dress-up or dress-down for business?

When I’m in the warehouse, I tend to dress down as I will invariably be shifting pieces of cloth around and helping with hands-on tasks at busy times. We have an extensive range of cottons, so my version of business-casual still involves tailored trousers and a smart shirt. If I have a meeting, I will always dress up. Likewise, I consistently make an effort when I’m travelling, as it is important to showcase our cloths. I’m lucky that thanks to the nature of the company, I can count many fine tailors as friends.

Which person has inspired you most in your business life and in what way?

My father. He guided me in my early days, introducing me to a lot of old school textile experts who taught me timeless industry principles. One such person was Michael Tankard, who educated me in the basics of cloth-making. He was a great man who quietly produced some of the most exclusive cloths in the world.

What’s your proudest achievement in business?

My proudest achievement was definitely buying Dugdale in 2000 to mark the new Millennium, and I was similarly delighted to appoint Simon as MD two years ago. He brought a vast amount of knowledge with him and has extensive experience in developing heritage brands, including Dunhill and Cole & Son.

What’s your company’s greatest asset?

Our function is very tight knit, so our greatest asset is really two rolled into one… firstly, the cloth, as each collection is inspired by our 120-year-old tradition in Huddersfield. And secondly, ‘Team Dugdale’, because every person in the company shares our brand values and is dedicated to what we do.

Do you use social media and if so with how much success?

We use social media as part of our overall profile-raising strategy, particularly when it comes to the balancing act between tradition and youth. Whilst it is difficult to measure success in this area, our business is growing within all markets, and social media will undoubtedly have played a part in this.

If you hadn’t gone down your chosen career path, what would you be doing?

I would have loved a career in the army.

Give us one tip for a successful business.

Treat your customers and suppliers alike, and always pay bills on time!

At what time of the day are you most creative or inspired?

Walking into work at 6:00am.

How do you relax away from work?

I have a very lively working cocker spaniel named Milly, who takes a lot of walking – and I mean hours! With commitment to the mid-life crisis phase of life, I also try to keep fit at the gym – with varying degrees of success.

When do you take your coffee break?

I don’t have a fixed break, I just keep going – but with plenty of coffee onboard.

Who would you most like to have a coffee with?

Michael Parkinson – I was brought up on Saturday night Parky interviews. He is quite simply the greatest interviewer of all time, a proud Yorkshireman, and he fits our cloth slogan of “understated elegance”. He is a great ambassador for so many things, including our wonderful county, and I would love to quiz him over a coffee.

What’s your coffee break favourite?

There are so many to choose from but my favourite is still from Merrie England – the original latte…

Through its 122-year history, the company has become renowned within the textiles world for supplying fine worsted fabrics to Savile Row tailors and iconic fashion houses alike. And it is precisely this international reach that was pivotal in making 2017 the most successful year on record for the brand.

With a fast-growing presence in overseas markets – including China, South Korea, Japan and Australia, to name just a few – the company reported a 22% uplift in turnover from exports alone, compared to the previous 12 months.

Significant expansion was achieved within the Scandinavian and Asian Pacific markets in particular, thanks to new distribution arrangements and the addition of two full-time export team members. 2017 also marked Dugdale Bros’ first year in partnership with its new USA agent Atlas International Textiles – a key distributor in America.

Domestic growth has followed a similar trajectory, with overall company turnover up 14% on the previous year. The recent appointment of sales managers Amit Karia and Jack Rowan has been key to this steady expansion, enabling the brand to build its customer base and enhance its visibility in the competitive UK market – particularly as the popularity of modern made-to-measure tailoring increases.

2017 saw the launch of three new cloth collections, bringing Dugdale Bros’ total number of ranges up to 23 – alongside the array of trimmings and linings also supplied by the brand. Amongst these new releases was the Royal Classic Vantage series, which incorporated archival patterns from the iconic 1957 Royal Classic collection, in celebration of its 60-year anniversary.

Based in Huddersfield since its establishment in 1896, the brand was taken on by chairman Robert Charnock in 2001 and is the last independently-owned cloth merchant remaining in the centre of the town.

Commenting on the record year of sales, Robert said: “2017 was intended to be a year of consolidation for us, following significant internal restructuring initiated by our managing director Simon Glendenning. However, increased activity with a number of notable luxury brands has helped to bolster our figures during this period.

Building on the previous year’s successes, 2018 will see the cloth brand launching five new lightweight collections to cater for summer tailoring. In addition, core lines will be refreshed with the introduction of new designs, colours and patterns.

Robert continued: “The expansion of our collections will further boost our market presence, and we’re expecting to see an additional 12% growth this year. The Dugdale Bros brand has truly come of age, and we’re looking forward to more people recognising the value of cloth that has been proudly made in Huddersfield.”

With headquarters on Northumberland Street in Huddersfield, Dugdale Bros & Co. has another office in Mayfair and supplies its cloths to tailors and distributors throughout the world.