Having called this West Yorkshire town home since 1896, we seize any opportunity we can to celebrate its rich textiles heritage. In recent years, we’ve taken our ‘Made in Huddersfield’ cloth as far afield as South East Asia and Australasia, so the fact that we’ve been recognised as one of the best exporters in the area is a real honour.

With a thorough entry process – requiring companies to evidence a “substantial and sustained increase in activity outside of the region”, along with details of how national and international success has contributed to the local economy – we were certainly put through our paces in compiling our initial submission.

Thankfully, our promising figures, fascinating backstory and forward-thinking approach to international sales speak volumes, and we’ve been named as one of three finalists in this category – alongside Huddersfield Town FC and Distinctive Chesterfields.

As one of 12 accolades set to be presented, all shortlisted companies are set to be visited by a film crew as part of the next phase of judging. This footage will then be showcased at a black-tie awards ceremony – where the triumphant businesses will be revealed.

Set to take place at the John Smith’s Stadium on Thursday 1 November, we’ve already booked our table for the night and are eagerly awaiting the announcement of the winners…

Congratulations to all others that have been shortlisted – we’ll see you at the ceremony!

Priceless price lists

Despite their age, these 79-year-old pricing booklets still very much echo the values and motivations behind today’s Dugdale Bros brand – those of inimitable quality, impeccable service and truly bespoke cloths. Yet, while back in the 1930s Dugdale Bros was perhaps best known for its value and budget tailoring services, over the years we have shifted our focus towards providing exceptionally high-quality fabrics, where time and dedication are woven into every collection.

Against a backdrop of turmoil, the spring and summer pricelist of 1940 details how the wartime conditions were having a cumbersome effect on our bunch issuing services. However, despite the difficult circumstances, we were able to continue with our sartorial endeavours and provide an exceptional service to the ladies and gentlemen of this tumultuous epoch.

Vintage press adverts

With our premium cloth collections – favoured by tailors and designers around the world – we have had our fair share of press coverage over the years, and to this day we love showcasing the work we do. Whether creating new collections to reflect the latest tailoring trends or featuring in Savile Row tailors’ seasonal campaigns, everything we do is borne from our passion for providing well-made, durable cloths to dressmaking professionals across the globe.

One of the most widely-known publications for tailors in the 19th and 20th centuries, Tailor & Cutter was a magazine wholly dedicated to the trade. First published in 1866, the magazine featured articles about the latest menswear styles and advertisements from celebrated cloth merchants and served as the go-to title for sartorial inspiration.

Our adverts featured in many issues of the magazine, and in the deepest depths of our office we found some copies dating from 1921 to 1937. From those pictured, we have featured content about our White Rose Bunches, ladies’ coatings for the winter months and the Westminster and Mersey serges – to name only a few.

Over the years, our Northumberland Street home has proven to be a real treasure trove of artefacts from our past and we never get tired of exploring all the tailoring legacies we happen across.

Stay tuned for the next instalment…

Well versed in creating fine garments, co-directors Richard Anderson and Brian Lishak – along with their team of tailors – collectively have over 100 years’ experience in the industry and are famed for their exuberant approach to this intricate craft. The team of sartorial experts pride themselves on offering the quality and precision of traditional tailoring, injected with a modern twist of lively colours, as seen in their refined house style.

The trademark of Richard Anderson Ltd is creating clothing to complement and accentuate each individual client’s profile. This drive for personalised perfection is clearly illustrated by the fact that head cutter Richard takes all the measurements for customers wanting a bespoke, made-to-measure suit. As a result, this synergy of unique style and exquisite attention to detail has seen famous customers such as George Michael and Bryan Ferry come through the door.

Summer Suiting

Now that we’re in the throes of warmer weather, the garment-making specialists at Richard Anderson Ltd have announced that summer linens and bright coloured accessories are the main themes for this season’s campaign.

The versatility and inimitable qualities of linen have seen it become a fabric favourite during the summer months. But with traditional colourways chiefly comprising beiges, tobacco and blues, this textile hasn’t always been top of the list when it comes to producing stand-out seasonal apparel. So, when searching for the perfect cloth to headline their summertime suiting promotion, the shades on offer within our 12oz Lisburn Linen collection caught the Savile Row tailor’s attention straight away.

Aside from its cool and breathable nature, the rationale behind choosing this Dugdale Bros cloth was its superior performance when compared to lighter 9oz linen options on offer – especially how its heavyweight composition ensures increased resistance to creasing.

For the experienced tailor, choosing a perfectly balanced colour for a seasonal piece is an important first step and finding one that is timeless, refined and adaptable without being flamboyant or over-the-top, is no easy task. Opting for the Lisburn collection’s refreshing teal shade for the campaign’s ready-to-wear jacket centrepiece, Richard found that the cloth’s subtly striking colour ensured that the transition from daytime to evening would be smooth and effortless. At all times of day, the jacket will provide a comfortable, elegant addition to any outfit composition – whether as part of a more formal look with trousers or as a relaxed alternative, draped around the shoulders.

It’s all in the detail

When commenting on the rationale behind choosing this particular cloth, Richard Anderson Ltd explains that “the dry handle and subtle texture of the linen gives the jacket an extra element of charm, and a sportier style slanted pocket contributes a versatile touch”. The casual style – combined with its stunning colour – makes this jacket the perfect choice for any summer BBQ, where it would be delicately styled as a blazer with white linen trousers or chinos. Alternatively, it could be worn as part of a smarter outfit, as seen at outdoor sporting events such as race meetings, the Henley Royal Regatta or even one of the season’s many tennis tournaments.

To ensure seamless, on-trend styling, the tailors at Richard Anderson Ltd recommend weaving a touch of vibrancy into the model look with a set of rich-coloured felt braces. With a superb selection of colours and a subtly textured finish – offset by white leather and brass fittings – these are an essential for any gentleman’s formal wardrobe. Similarly, the rich spectrum of luxurious ribbed knit socks showcased in the Savile Row tailor’s campaign, presents an array of options to brighten up any summer outfit.

Tales of a tailor

As well as crafting ready-to-wear, made-to-measure and bespoke garments, celebrated cutter Richard Anderson has also written the industry-acclaimed book, ‘Bespoke – Savile Row Ripped and Smoothed’. His sartorial musings are designed to inform, excite and inspire likeminded tailoring enthusiasts, and in his latest work – ‘Making the Cut’ – he explores the fascinating history and design of Savile Row’s most iconic menswear pieces and how they integrate into a modern gentleman’s wardrobe. It is a unique book, full of original sketches and photographs, that gives a real insight into the time and dedication that go into crafting truly impressive garments.

Another trend on the Pitti radar was the revival of the parka coat, for a classic AW style. The collection of coating garments on show from luxury men’s outerwear company, Grenfell, was reminiscent of golden autumnal hues and statement checks.

Networking with existing and potential customers was definitely one of the key highlights in Florence, as it gave our team the chance to discuss existing projects and ones to explore over the coming months. This photo was taken on the night of the Liverano party and features Amit with Maximilian Mogg – owner of a made-to-measure boutique in Berlin – who was wearing Dugdale cloth on the night!

As ever, it was a contemporary and inspiring event that left our team wanting to find out more about the upcoming timeless menswear styles. Luckily, we don’t have to wait too long for the next fair, and we can’t wait to channel all that we’ve learned into our upcoming collections! Watch this space…

What does your company do?

Dugdale Bros is the last remaining independent cloth merchant in the centre of Huddersfield. We supply fine fabric in bulk to bespoke and made-to-measure tailors, luxury fashion houses, retailers and garment makers around the world.

When was your company launched, who by and why?

The company was started by brothers Henry Percy and Frederick Herbert Dugdale in 1896. Textiles manufacturing in Huddersfield had reached its zenith, with international demand for luxury worsted cloth quickly rising. These were the days before ready to wear clothing was available, so those who could afford would have their garments tailor-made.

Demand for the accoutrement necessary to craft these finished pieces similarly outweighed the supply at the time, so the brothers made the most of a natural business opportunity and began providing tailoring accessories alongside a growing range of fine worsted cloths.

How long has the company been exporting?

Exports have constituted a large part of the company’s sales operation for over 100 years. The Dugdale brothers first started shipping their wares around the world in the early part of the 20th century, and the international popularity of the brand has continued to grow since then.

What do you currently export, and where to?

Of course, some are more suitable for certain climates than others. For instance, we’re seeing a lot of demand already for our latest linen ranges in the more temperate Australasian and Mediterranean regions.

Having said that, there are some anomalies that do surprise us – our Derby Tweed range being a stand out example. At 1000g per linear metre it is our heaviest fabric, occupying such a niche that we only offer it on a bespoke made-to-order basis. Although designed primarily for the kind of hardwearing coatings you might need on the Yorkshire moors or Scottish Highlands, this collection has recently experienced a huge surge in popularity within the Japanese market – the last place we would have expected it to thrive!

What motivated you to start selling overseas, and how long did it take?

Whilst we have been exporting for over a century, in the last ten years we have taken a far more proactive approach with developing our overseas markets. Prior to this, our attention was almost exclusively on our domestic sales. However, we recognised untapped potential in international territories that we were not yet making the most of, so we started focusing more on growing our export function.

There has been a steadily emerging global interest in provenance recently – with people placing far more value on the craftsmanship that has gone into the things they buy. In turn, this has strengthened the renown surrounding premium materials and quality manufacturing – not to mention strong values, sustainability and heritage.

With these elements at the core of Dugdale Bros, we’re lucky that as a result of this shifting consumer mindset – and growing favour for such qualities as durability and attention to detail – international demand for our products has also lifted. There’s real esteem surrounding our ‘Made in Huddersfield’ label in these overseas markets, which is largely down to the town’s rich clothmaking legacy standing the test of time. Huddersfield cloth is also known for giving better drape, durability and warmth in cold climates than trendy lighter weight alternatives.

What is the easiest part of exporting?

As we have been doing it for so long, exporting is just a natural extension of what we do in the UK, which means there’s nothing to be afraid of. Day to day, we look at our domestic and overseas markets as a whole rather than disparately, which I believe is crucial to maintaining our brand integrity and authenticity irrespective of location.

Whether we’re showcasing a new collection at a Savile Row tailors or visiting one of our clients in Seoul, the respect we have for our customers and the dedicated service we provide remains the same. It’s this consistency, familiarity and commitment to building longstanding relationships that makes exporting second nature to us.

And the most challenging part?

As with many areas in life, the biggest niggle when it comes to exporting is probably the invoicing!

Have language barriers, currency changes, etiquette and culture ever caused you any difficulties? How did you overcome them?

We have been visiting clients around the world for many years now, so have grown accustomed to the idiosyncrasies of a huge variety of cultures and customs. Being aware of and sensitive to different practices and etiquette is, of course, essential for any traveller.

One country that stands out in this respect is Japan, where we have a steadily growing base of valued customers. Each time I visit, I find myself in awe of the prevailing centrality that tradition has within modern life there. Practices such as remembering to remove your shoes when you enter a smart restaurant or sitting on the floor to eat, certainly take some getting used to, but are precisely what makes the travel so rewarding.

I think it’s worth mentioning that being a British brand, we are lucky that most of the world speaks English, so there are rarely any language barriers. I try not to take this for granted, and make an effort to learn a few key phrases before arriving – it shows respect and willing, even if no one can understand me!

Did you get any support when you wanted to trade abroad? Who from, and was it helpful?

Certain services that would have been helpful – such as the Department for International Trade (formerly UK Trade & Investment) – were only brought to our attention after we had already established our export operations. So we have largely relied on support in the form of peer advice and word of mouth recommendations. It can be difficult to research and identify the right distribution partner within new overseas markets, so we do seek assistance when we can in this arena – although always on a case by case basis, as no two territories are the same.

What advice would you give to someone just starting to explore overseas markets?

Do your research thoroughly before attempting anything, and make sure there is a demand for your product within the marketplace. For instance – ignoring the fluke Derby Tweed example I gave earlier – we know that it is very difficult to sell heavy, rustic cloths in China due to the climate, so be sure that people actually want what you’re offering them.

Finally, don’t give up.

Where next? What markets are you looking into and where do you see the company in 5 years time?

We have covered most markets, but are yet to break into South America and Russia. South America is our next target – particularly those countries that have an affinity for British goods, such as Chile, Argentina and Colombia. Plus, rather than exclusively expanding our distribution, we are also intending to explore other avenues of usage for our collections – including interior design and upholstery, for instance.

With export turnover up by 22% in 2017, we had our most successful year to date, so we are hoping to build on this momentum and aim to further increase our overall turnover by 40-60% in the next five years.

Following on from our exploration of garment chalk manufacturer Hancock’s illustrious history, this time our attention is on heritage brand Prym – the oldest family-owned business in Germany – whose steel thimbles have become a classic in the world of textiles.

The history

Prym’s humble beginnings started almost five centuries ago in 1530, when founder Wilhelm Prym became an independent goldsmith in Aachen, Germany. This led to the creation of the company and by 1559, Wilhelm’s son Kergsten Prym was also running a brass workshop, further strengthening the family expertise within the metal industry. Their proximity to significant deposits of zinc ore provided ideal conditions for the Pryms to start producing brass themselves.

Fast forward to 1642, and rising religious tensions brought trying times for the business. The Prym family lost their guild rights as a result of being Protestants in the Catholic city of Aachen, which saw Christian Prym moving his entire family to the town of Stolberg, wanting a better life. To this day, the company headquarters are still based there in an area known as Dollartshammer.

During the next few centuries, Christian Prym married into the Peltzer family –  one of the region’s most important brassmakers – beginning a long-standing partnership between the two. By the late 18^th century, the company had 140 furnaces producing 40,000 hundredweight (equivalent to 320,000 stone) of brass.

Despite difficulties at the start of the 19^th century – resulting from a wider decline in brass production – by its end the company had begun to flourish again. With a pioneering spirit at its heart, the business moved along with the changing market and started manufacturing copper alloy wires. After undertaking an apprenticeship in Birmingham, Heinrich August Prym brought his skills back to Germany and the company began mechanically producing small metal parts – including thimbles. With a focus on manufacturing sewing accessories, Prym started branding its items with a stag – taken from the family crest – with a needle in its antlers.

But the innovation didn’t stop there. In 1903, Hans Friedrich Prym took the existing press fastener model and improved it by inserting a spring and patenting his creation. By 1909, demand was high for the new design and the business continued to go from strength to strength over the following decades. And although considerable difficulties were endured in the aftermath of WWII, Prym eventually reacquired all production sites that were lost throughout the country – as well as in Austria and Poland – as a result of the war.

Still prevailing in the 21^st century, the company now manufactures around 15 million press fasteners every day. With an array of sewing, craft and apparel accessories in its product portfolio, Prym has branched out further in recent times and now makes small mechanical elements for the automotive and electronic industries too.

You can find Prym’s steel thimbles on our online trimmings store, or by contacting our sales department on 01484 421772.