JOURNAL

The Story of The Suit

We’re thrilled to present ‘The Story of the Suit’, a BBC StoryWorks Commercial Production for Walpole as part of “Love Letters from Britain”.

April 26, 2022
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WORDS Rob Charnock

Featuring Dugdale Chairman Robert Charnock alongside Savile Row tailor Kathryn Sargent, “The Story of the Suit” explores the magic of British cloth making and tailoring, from the weaving of cloth through to the cutting – and indeed wearing – of the final garments.

‘We are greatly excited to bring you the story of British bespoke tailoring, showcasing two custodians of the trade as they keep the magic of the British suit alive. It was a pleasure to walk with Kathryn Sargent and Dugdale Bros down the historic Savile Row, where they are ushering the custom craft of tailoring into the 21st century.’ – Simon Shelley, Global Director of Programme Partnerships, BBC StoryWorks.

JOURNAL

The Invincible Spirit: A Special Commission with Dobrik & Lawton

When an adventurous customer approached tailoring house Dobrik & Lawton about recreating a suit worn by a nineteenth century mountaineer, founders Joshua Dobrik and Kimberley Lawton knew only one cloth merchant would be up to the challenge.

August 17, 2021
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WORDS Rob Charnock

Having established their bespoke tailoring house in 2020 with a mission to push the boundaries of London handcraft, Dobrik & Lawton are going from strength to strength. With a love for Art Deco and the avant-garde, their creations have a modern touch combined with echoes of historical elegance. It’s no surprise, then, that this forward thinking duo attract the kinds of exciting commissions Dugdale Bros & Co. loves to get involved in. 

We visited their Walthamstow workshop recently to witness the final stages in the construction of a suit for a customer with a penchant for alpine adventure, and to interview Josh about this very special commission.

With a love for Art Deco and the avant-garde, their creations have a modern touch combined with echoes of historical elegance. We decided that the “Invincible” Game Keepers Tweed would be the perfect match for this expedition, being exceptionally durable and warm at a weight of 35 ozs.

DB: Tell us more about this suit and who it’s being made for.

JD: The suit is being made for a customer who, in stark contrast to his very wholesome life in London as a family man and successful businessman, took up alpinism as a hobby many years ago. He often escapes the city on a Saturday evening, landing in Geneva and arriving at his base in Zermatt late that night, sleeping for just a few hours before picking a neighbouring summit to ascend very early the following morning. Once back down from his climb, he boards the earliest flight home in time for work on Monday morning.

He developed a particular fascination for the Matterhorn, a notorious mountain steeped in Alpine history. The first successful ascent was made by a team led by Edward Whymper in 1865. Of the 7 men who attempted the successful ascent, only 3 made it back alive when the inexperienced Douglas Hadow slipped, bringing down 3 others attached to him by a rope.

The garment we are making is a recreation of what Whymper was known for wearing throughout his life, both in public and on ridges: a double breasted 2 show 3 tweed suit.

 

DB: Fascinating! Can you tell us more about the cloth you’re using for the suit and why you chose Dugdale in particular?

JD: When looking for a cloth that was fit for purpose and historically pertinent, our first port of call was Dugdale.

As tailors we are all aware that Dugdale weave specifically for the bespoke trade, making cloth capable of lasting the test of time and sustaining the harsh conditions we put it under over the course of successive baste fittings.

Dugdale is unique in today’s market, being the sole merchants to place us handcraft clothiers in front of more lucrative big factory lines. Given the need for resilience and historical accuracy for this project, we sought Dugdale’s extensive knowledge of dyes, weaves and yarn to pick something that Whymper could well have chosen himself back in the day, and landed on the Invincible Game Keepers Tweed, which has proven to be a testament to your ethos of relevant tradition and long wear.

 

DB: Thank you Josh! We hope your customer is as thrilled with the suit as we are!

A note on Invincible from our chairman, Rob Charnock:

We decided that the “Invincible” Game Keepers Tweed would be the perfect match for this expedition, being exceptionally durable and warm at a weight of 35 ozs. The cloth is constructed from a heavy worsted warp to give incredible tensile strength and a 10 skeins coarse British woollen weft for warmth. Woven in a full sett 5/3 twill with a waterproof treatment means the clothing will keep out all the challenging Matterhorn elements for our intrepid Alpinist.

Shop the Invincible collection.

JOURNAL

Dugdale Handwoven Tweed: 125 years of pride, passion and integrity

This month Dugdale Bros & Co. celebrates 125 years of being at the forefront of the English cloth trade, supplying premium cloth to some of the world’s most renowned tailors, designers and clothiers.

June 25, 2021
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WORDS Rob Charnock

To mark this incredible milestone, we have collaborated with Savile Row tailoring house Anderson & Sheppard to produce the first ever garment to be made out of their special edition anniversary tweed, ‘Dugdale Handwoven’.

Spun from heavy skeins of British wool and woven by hand on 19th century looms at the Colne Valley Museum in Huddersfield, ‘Dugdale Handwoven’ is a hardy yet luxurious cloth in striking black and gold houndstooth.

‘We’ve purchased cloth from Dugdale for more than 100 years and over that time our two companies have built a strong and successful relationship’ says Anderson & Sheppard MD Colin Heywood.

‘When we were approached to make the jacket for Dugdale’s 125 year celebration, showcasing their commemorative tweed, we were extremely thrilled and honoured to participate. This collaboration just cements the special bond our two companies share.’

Spun from heavy skeins of British wool and woven by hand on 19th century looms at the Colne Valley Museum in Huddersfield, ‘Dugdale Handwoven’ is a hardy yet luxurious cloth in striking black and gold houndstooth.
Discover Dugdale Handwoven

To find out more about Dugdale Handwoven, email enquiries@dugdalebrosandco.com or speak to your Dugdale representative.

Dugdale chairman Robert Charnock is equally delighted with the collaboration, stating ‘both ourselves and Anderson & Sheppard have a long and rich history in the tailoring world, but we are also forward thinking brands that continue to evolve with the times. Our heritage is important, and we want to celebrate that, but we also want to celebrate who we are right now and we have our sights set on another 125 years of bringing exceptional cloth to the world.’

The Anderson & Sheppard x Dugdale 125 Year Jacket will be on display at The Service, 23 Savile Row until the end of July.

JOURNAL

Getting behind the suit with Charles Augoye

In the first of our ‘Get behind the suit’ blog series we interviewed Charles Augoye, co-founder of bespoke tailoring company Bosi & Charles.

 

May 19, 2021
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WORDS Rob Charnock

Tell us a bit about your brand and how it started.

I’ve been into fashion from a young age. As a school boy in Benin City I started supplementing my pocket money by selling clothes to my friends. This later developed into a fully fledged business where, along with my friend Bosi, I would make trips to the UK to stock up on items from high street fashion brands to resell back home. We made a great success of it but our ambition was always to have our own fashion label. And so in 2008 Bosi & Charles was born.

Photography by Liz McAuley.

You use Dugdale Bros cloth frequently for your suits. What is it about Dugdale Bros & Co that resonates with you?

We use Dugdale for it’s english heritage, quality, durability and versatility of the fabrics. We really like the royal pageant and lisburn collection because of the vibrant colours in the range. Dugdale particularly resonates with our brand because of the wide range of fabrics, on Monday I can be spotted in a Pinstripe suit from the formal wear or royal classic vantage, on Wednesday in a light weight Navy from the Merchant fleece and on Saturday in a peach linen from the Lisburn collection.

What’s next for Bosi & Charles?

We are looking to expand to Atlanta early next year, as we are seeing increasing patronage across the pond and one of our partners is relocating there. We are also working on our collections and a few editorials which we are excited about. Then we are looking to do more ready to wear pieces for shirting, safari’s, overshirts and pants.

Shop the look

Black and white puppy tooth two piece suit with peak lapel and flat pockets – Formal Wear Collection (8711)

Classic blue two piece suit with peak lapel – The Merchant Fleece Collection (5904)

JOURNAL

Getting behind the suit with Mike Deans

For the latest piece in our ‘Get behind the suit’ series we interviewed Mike Deans, the young bespoke cutter who recently made the move off of his Savile Row training ground to head up operations at Oliver Brown.

May 19, 2021
IMAGES Liz McAuley
WORDS Rob Charnock

Tell us more about your career, Mike.

I’ve always been fascinated by style. For me dressing is a form of creative expression. After working in a variety of jobs, in industries as diverse as engineering, music and pharmaceuticals, I landed myself a job managing a small menswear boutique. At the time I was very much into the Mod subculture and as I dug deeper into the history of the early relaxed Ivy League influences, the sharp suits and button down shirts, I started to discover a real passion for tailoring that I wanted to explore.

I took my first steps into the Savile Row world working as a fitter at Cad & The Dandy. This was a great opportunity to explore the relationship between customer and tailor and I was lucky to have people around me that appreciated my enthusiasm for the craft. I started to learn some cutting from them in my free time but I knew that if I really wanted to master the craft I would need to find an apprenticeship.

Motivation, persistence and a rather large dusting of luck landed me a cutting apprenticeship at Gieves & Hawkes, working under Senior Cutter Nina Penlington. It was such an incredible team to learn from; very free with their knowledge, progressive with their approach to tailoring and a real focus on high quality craftsmanship.

Photography by Liz McAuley.

Shop the look

Mike wears a two piece navy suit with notch lapel made using Dugdale Bros 15/16oz Navy Cavalry Twill (4216)

Why do you use Dugdales cloth?

Dugdale Bros has always been a company that creates high quality and hardy British cloth. But suits are also about the story – the blood sweat and tears that goes into making them.

When I first joined the industry I came to Dugdale Bros in Huddersfield to learn more about the cloth and was really inspired by the passion shown by the workers in the mills, which mirrored the passion I had for my own craft. As I got to know more about the processes and production, I gained even more appreciation for what goes into cloth making. That appreciation for story and craft is something I hope to be able to pass onto my customers.

Earlier in the year I finished making a navy suit for myself, something I believe should be a staple in every wardrobe. My old navy suit had worn out and I wanted something that would stand up to the rigours of daily wear, sculpt beautifully and allow the shape to do the talking. I was aiming for understated elegance. Dugdale’s navy Cavalry Twill leant itself to that task perfectly.

Other bunches that I enjoy working with are the New Fine Worsteds bunch, Tropicalair, Natural Elements Linens and the Formalwear bunch.

Dugdale Bros has always been a company that creates high quality and hardy British cloth. But suits are also about the story – the blood sweat and tears that goes into making them.

What’s next for you?

I had a great time with Gieves but recently left to head up the team over at Oliver Brown in Sloane Square. The bespoke department at the company is still very young but we are situated in an unique position and I think there is an opportunity to create our own story. It’s rare that you get such an opportunity to start to form a company’s heritage from its infancy and I feel privileged to have been entrusted with that.

 

What’s next for the suit?

We do a lot of relaxed and more casual garments over at Oliver Brown. I am hoping to expand on that with the current customer base, whilst also introducing others to what we do. The suit is certainly not dead, it’s merely evolving and in the industry we have to understand that. 2020 was a difficult time for the tailoring trade and people in general. My hope is that we can have a small part in injecting some positivity and excitement back into people’s lives over the coming year.

JOURNAL

A recognition of luxury: Dugdale CEO Simon Glendenning makes it onto Walpole’s ‘Power 50’ list

Walpole, the official sector body for UK luxury, has today published its second-annual Power List to celebrate the Fifty of the Most Influential People in the British luxury sector. We’re delighted to reveal that Dugdale Bros & Co. CEO Simon Glendenning has been recognised on this prestigious list as an ‘individual with extraordinary expertise in their respective fields.’

November 16, 2020
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WORDS Rob Charnock

Walpole, the official sector body for UK luxury, has today published its second-annual Power List to celebrate the Fifty of the Most Influential People in the British luxury sector. We’re delighted to reveal that Dugdale Bros & Co. CEO Simon Glendenning has been recognised on this prestigious list as an ‘individual with extraordinary expertise in their respective fields.’

A wine merchant turned luxury goods advocate, Simon has spent the majority of his career seeking out and restoring heritage British brands within niche sectors including Wensum Tailoring, Cole & Son and now Dugdale Bros & Co.

“This is an absolutely unexpected accolade for which I am truly grateful.”

‘I’m thrilled to have been recognised by Walpole for my dedication to promoting luxury brands with British provenance, especially whilst in the position of CEO at Dugdale Bros.’

Passionate about promoting local craftsmanship and manufacturing, Simon hopes this accolade will help shine a light on the excellence of Dugdale Bros and that the Huddersfield cloth industry will begin to get the recognition it deserves as being the source of the finest cloth in the world.

More about Walpole

Walpole is the official sector body for UK luxury. Founded in 1992 as a not-for-profit organisation, it counts more than 250 British brands in its membership and is recognised in both Westminster and Brussels. As the voice of British luxury, Walpole’s purpose is to promote, protect and develop a sector worth £48 billion to the UK economy and the jewel in the crown of UK business.

JOURNAL

The Home of Luxury Tailoring: Dugdale Bros arrives on Savile Row

We are thrilled to announce that we are now the only independently owned English cloth merchant to have an address on Savile Row, the historic home of luxury tailoring.

October 9, 2020
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WORDS Rob Charnock

Until recently, Dugdale Bros’ London offices had been tucked away on a small but charming Mayfair street just around the corner from the stores, boutiques and tailoring houses of Regent St, Bond St and, of course, Savile Row. A welcoming retreat where customers could pour over the finer details of our latest cloths and finishes, our base on Mill Street has always served us well with its unique charm and character. 

That being said, we are thrilled to announce that we are now one of the only cloth merchants to have an address on Savile Row, the historic home of luxury British tailoring. Located right in the centre of the street at number 32, our Savile Row showroom offers the same charm and privacy of our previous address but with added space and style.

Archive cloth and ephemera on display at the Dugdale showroom

We are also proud to be sharing the space with bespoke embroiderers Hawthorne & Heaney, who specialize in excellent, innovative design and rigorous production expertise.

Entering via The Service, a new lifestyle destination and coffee bar, customers can soak in the atmosphere of the street as they make their way past deep green panelling, ambient lighting and mid-century furniture before descending the stairs to the spacious Dugdale showroom.

Boasting a range of bolts and bunches from our collections, including Ecology, Merchant Fleece, Needle Ready and White Rose Caldonaire, our showroom also stocks a curated selection of vintage cloths and one-off bolts from our archives. Displayed proudly on a vintage cutting table brought all the way from Dugdale HQ in Huddersfield, these are available in limited quantities and represent some of Dugdale’s finest heritage cloths.

We are also proud to be sharing the space with bespoke embroiderers Hawthorne & Heaney, who specialize in excellent, innovative design and rigorous production expertise.

Please contact your Dugdale representative or email enquiries@dugdalebros.com to make an appointment.

JOURNAL

A Gabardine Trouser designed in partnership with Kit Blake & The Rake

We have joined forces with trouser specialists Kit Blake to produce these exquisite cream gabardine trousers, made from our Royal Pageant collection, exclusively for The Rake.

July 21, 2020
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WORDS Rob Charnock

Chris Modoo shares the Kit Blake philosophy with The Rake, ‘to personally trial and wear every cloth before it is put in the collection.’

Chris goes on to speak about his love of this collection’s ‘perfect English cream’, natural drape and crease recovery before outlining the versatile styles in which these trousers can be worn.

“I had a pair made in the 6208 cream and I knew it would be good but I never expected it to be this good.”

Chris Modoo also spoke of Dugdale cloth and his favourite collections.  ‘They are the last remaining, independently owned cloth merchant in Huddersfield, supplying classic, contemporary and luxury fabrics to tailoring houses and brands around the world. I have had the pleasure to work with Dugdale all my tailoring career and they have always supported my ambitions whether I was working with a start-up or, as I have done, the oldest tailoring brand in the world.’

“A pair of cream “gabs” lifts your summer wardrobe with endless, elegant possibilities.”

‘Their collections are comprehensive and there is definitely a Dugdale cloth for everyone. I have too many favourites; New Fine Worsted is an Edwardian topical-weave travel cloth that was once used to dress the staff at Raffles hotel in Singapore. Town Classics is everything you would expect from a British cloth and has the best selection of classics from glen checks to chalk-stripes as well as a few unexpected colour combinations, such as a nifty mid-blue houndstooth that I have never had the courage to order for myself – yet!’.

JOURNAL

Spinning a yarn with… Mike Deans

At Dugdale Bros, we love to see long-standing textiles and tailoring traditions being passed on through the generations. Our own story is just one chapter within Huddersfield’s illustrious cloth-making history, so it’s inspiring to see young, talented individuals from the area continuing to drive this narrative forward.

August 19, 2019
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WORDS Rob Charnock

The next sartorial professional to take part in our Q&A is Mike Deans – undercutter at Savile Row’s Gieves and Hawkes – who recently completed a suiting project using our Navy Cavalry Twill cloth.

 

What cloth did you choose?

I chose the 15/16oz Navy Cavalry Twill.

 

What was the project?

Excitingly, I am making myself a bespoke suit. I have drafted the pattern and I will also be making it to the same standards that we expect of all garments at Gieves & Hawkes. It will be used to display my skills in aid of completing my cutting apprenticeship.

 

Why did you choose this specific cloth?

It’s a cloth I am familiar with. I know that it suits the way we construct suits here on Savile Row and will produce a clean and sharp looking garment come the end of the process.

 

Where did your tailoring journey begin?

My tailoring journey started by working front of house on Savile Row. Whilst in that role I was driven by a thirst for knowledge and the idea of acquiring mastery in a skill, that drove me to seek out a cutting apprenticeship.

 

Where did you study?

Tailoring was something that I had never studied, at least not in an academic capacity.

I was working front of house at a tailors called Cad & The Dandy and would conduct the initial consultation, as well as measuring the customer and fitting the garments. This allowed me to gain a wealth of knowledge that would become useful once I moved into the cutting room at Gieves & Hawkes.

If you are designing a garment for the functions of that particular customer’s lifestyle and body, you will naturally create a garment that is unique and what someone would consider as truly bespoke.

What is your favourite part of the job?

The variety is what I love. Being able to interact with the customer, the psychology that goes with making that person comfortable and bringing their ideas to life.

I enjoy the art of drafting the pattern from the measurements and observations. Ultimately the pattern is just the starting place but there is a lot of enjoyment in its creation.

 

Which of your pieces are you most proud of?

In the grand scheme of things I am still in the early stages of my tailoring career but one of the most rewarding was to cut and make a suit for a relative to wear on his wedding day. I cut, fitted and recut the suit before constructing it as well. Being a cutter I was helped across the finish line by Vivien Wang and Robert Parkin, who were working as coat makers here at Gieves.

 

How important are ethics and sustainability to you?

It’s a pertinent issue with the struggles we will face in the future and the clothing industry has been a major culprit in creating the excesses that are such a problem.

Savile Row has been practicing ethical and sustainable garment production since its inception as the niche industry we know today. We make garments to order, knowing they will be worn. To reduce waste we order the exact cloth we need for that garment and this cloth is more often than not woven and finished within the UK.

Mike Deans (pictured).

The variety is what I love. Being able to interact with the customer, the psychology that goes with making that person comfortable and bringing their ideas to life.

Describe your style of tailoring in three words…

Clean, comfortable and functional.

 

What is the Gieves and Hawkes house style?

At Gieves we like to work with customers on a one to one basis, with function being the driving factor in designing the garment.

If you are designing a garment for the functions of that particular customer’s lifestyle and body, you will naturally create a garment that is unique and what someone would consider as truly bespoke.

Over recent years, we have been using lighter weight canvasses, removing more padding from the shoulders and concentrating on making suits that are supremely comfortable whilst retaining the longevity that customers expect.

 

What one piece of advice would you give to anyone wanting to start out in tailoring?

The most important advice I can give is to concentrate on quality over speed in your work. When you are learning you have the luxury of spending the time to hone your skills and the speed will come through repetition.

 

What do you hope to have achieved in 10 years’ time?

Right now my focus is on making valuable and productive use of my time as an apprentice and learning from those skilled around me. There is no rush in this game.

 

If you could describe Huddersfield’s reputation on the global cloth map in one word, what would that word be?

Authenticity.

JOURNAL

Spinning a yarn with… Charlotte Henderson

At Dugdale Bros, we love to see long-standing textiles and tailoring traditions being passed on through the generations. Our own story is just one chapter within Huddersfield’s illustrious cloth-making history, so it’s inspiring to see young, talented individuals from the area continuing to drive this narrative forward.

August 19, 2019
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WORDS Rob Charnock

The next sartorial professional to take part in our Q&A is Charlotte Henderson– undercutter at Savile Row’s Davies & Son.

 

Where did your tailoring journey begin?

My tailoring journey began at Davies & Son where I currently am now.

 

Where did you study?

Before my apprenticeship at Davies & Son, I attended the London College of Fashion studying Fashion Design and Marketing.

 

Who inspired you to become a tailor?

No one – I wanted to broaden my knowledge of pattern cutting and the construction of garments, and to me, the world of bespoke tailoring was the best place to learn about it.

 

If you weren’t a tailor, what would you be?

If I wasn’t a tailor I’d have liked to have been involved in costume design for the television and theatre; particularly period drama costumes.

Ethics and sustainability is very important, there is far too much fast fashion and need for the latest look. Bespoke tailoring is the complete opposite and that’s what I love about it;  the garments are classic and made to last a life time and can do just that if looked after properly.

Which designers do you most admire?

Yves Saint Laurent has always been a designer I have admired since doing a project on him at secondary school. He changed the way women dressed in accordance to the way society was changing, and made the art world and fashion world collide.

 

What is your favourite part of the job?

My favourite part of the job is getting a new piece of cloth to strike; it’s the start of a brand new suit being made.

 

Which of your pieces are you most proud of?

I made a jacket for my grandad for his 85th birthday from start to finish. It pushed me to learn new skills and I was very proud of what I made for him.

 

How important are ethics and sustainability to you?

Ethics and sustainability is very important, there is far too much fast fashion and need for the latest look. Bespoke tailoring is the complete opposite and that’s what I love about it;  the garments are classic and made to last a life time and can do just that if looked after properly. We often have clothing brought back that are over 50 years old that someone has inherited and would like it to fit them.

If I wasn’t a tailor I’d have liked to have been involved in costume design for the television and theatre; particularly period drama costumes.

Describe your style of tailoring in three words…

I would describe my style of tailoring as classic, waisted and sharp.

 

What one piece of advice would you give to anyone wanting to start out in tailoring?

Perseverance. You have to keep going into the tailoring houses with your cv so they remember your face and they can see how much you want to be a tailor – that’s how I did it.

 

What do you hope to have achieved in 10 years’ time?

In the next 10 years I will have liked to have learned more skills on the making side of tailoring and I would also like to focus more on women’s tailoring.

 

If you could describe Huddersfield’s reputation on the global cloth map in one word, what would that word be?

Heritage would be a word I would use to describe Huddersfield’s reputation on the global cloth map.

 

What is your house style?

The Davies and Son house style is a very classic English cut; waisted but not too much skirt creating an hourglass figure.

 

If you had to choose one of our cloths for yourself which would it be and why?

I would probably choose a cloth from your Lightweight Tartans bunch because I love to wear tartan/check trousers.