Our latest fine linen collections – Heirloom and Lagan Valley – are made by the historic linen makers of Northern Ireland, a region as famous for producing high quality, sustainable linen as Huddersfield is for producing woolen cloth.

Lagan Valley, named after the river that gave life to the Irish linen industry over three centuries ago, is a 340g dry washed linen with a soft antique finish, providing a beautiful natural patina from the very first wear.

Heirloom, on the other hand, is a range of 325-380g tropical and twill weaves which has a unique cultured finish, making it perfect for tailoring garments that are as elegant as they are long lasting.

Offering something for sartorial traditionalists and disruptors alike, garments made from both these collections are certain to adorn the world’s most stylish individuals for decades to come.

The next sartorial professional to take part in our Q&A is Joakim Hartzell, CEO of Götrich, one of Europe’s oldest tailoring establishments founded 1730 in Stockholm, Sweden.

Which cloth did you choose?

The Lisburn 7428 natural linen.

What was the project?

In the very first collection of RTW from Götrich, we focus on fantastic quality in small quantities. That means that we tailor each garment the same way as we make our bespoke products, with the same amount of handwork and the same quality of the cloth. As part of this first collection we will make a classic safari jacket from the Lisburn linen bunch.

Why did you choose this specific cloth?

For many reasons. We have worked with Dugdale cloth for a very long time and thus we know how lovely the cloth is to work with. The Lisburn Linen has a great texture and feel that goes extremely well with our casual tailored garments. We want this design to work in many situations, with a pair of denims during the weekend or as a more casual jacket over a formal shirt. The mix between texture and natural colour will create a very versatile garment for the warmer seasons.

Where did your tailoring journey begin?

It began as a customer actually. Coming to Savile Row as a young banker made me fall in love with the craft. After my first bespoke suit I could never go back, and after a while I realised that I wanted to devote more of my life to tailoring and classic clothing instead of numbers.

Where did you study?

I have a Master’s degree in Business and Economics from the Stockholm School of Economics.

Who inspired you to become a tailor?

I’m not a tailor, but I employ several highly skilled tailors in our atelier in Stockholm. The tailors at Götrich have all been trained in the business over many years, and when the seven current owners of the business came in, they were all already working there.

If you weren’t a tailor, what would you be?

In addition to my work at Götrich, I’m also investing in other exciting projects together with two partners from Civitus. In that capacity I’m a board member in the rainwear company Stutterheim, the watchmaker TRIWA, as well as the craft tonic maker Swedish Tonic.

Who is your style inspiration?

I get inspiration from many different places, such as my colleagues, our customers, my friends and family, as well as people I meet and see in the street. I tend to get influenced more by people in my close surrounding than from billboards and magazines.

What is your favourite part of the job?

Meeting our repeat customers is always incredibly rewarding. To see how customers build up their wardrobes with the help of our tailors, and to follow the dynamic that builds up between a craftsman and an enthusiast is really exciting. We love all our customers at Götrich, and we try to create a really welcoming and warm environment that people like to come back to.

Which of your pieces are you most proud of?

It’s always fun to make pieces that stand out. Last autumn we created a lovely Dinner Jacket in one of Dugdale’s clan tartan cloths which was very eye-catching, as well as a bright pink tweed safari jacket.

How important are ethics and sustainability to you?

Very important. It’s hard to not feel a sting of worry when you walk through a shopping centre and see enormous volumes of garments that are likely to be sold at low prices and used only a limited amount of times. Bespoke tailoring is part of the counter movement, where we try to make timeless pieces to be worn for a very long time, with durability as a central concept. We also of course take care of our customers’ garments over the years through repairs and alterations.

Describe your style of tailoring in three words…

Elegant, current and flexible.

What is your house style?

An updated yet classic British silhouette as a base, with a flexible approach based on the customers preferences. We are happy to experiment together with the customer to make sure they get their dream wardrobe. The starting point, however, is typically a classic built up and hand padded chest, a relatively accentuated shoulder, and bell-shaped waist.

What one piece of advice would you give to anyone wanting to start out in tailoring?

We want to find people that are genuinely passionate about the craft and the stylistic dimensions of tailoring, but that are also business minded in a way that helps bring our business forward. That could mean coming up with exciting collaborations, fun events, new patterns or designs etc. Tailoring is always an exciting mix between passion and entrepreneurship.

What do you hope to have achieved in 10 years’ time?

We have very high hopes for our RTW collection. In 10 years we hope to still have a very solid base of bespoke tailoring in Stockholm, with small collections of our best selling garments, accessories and more being sold globally.

If you had to choose one of our cloths for yourself which would it be and why?

I’d go for a heavy flannel since winters in Stockholm are quite fierce!

If you could describe Huddersfield’s reputation on the global cloth map in one word, what would that word be?

Unrivalled.

The Ecology collection has been curated with sustainability at its heart.

The collection uses 100% pure new wool, free from artificial dyes or harmful scouring agents. As such there are natural shade variations between batches, giving a true uniqueness to every piece.

Using a blend of fleece from Jacobs and Black Welsh Mountain breeds, we have produced an undyed, pure wool cloth which is 100% British, naturally sourced, spun, woven and finished in Huddersfield. The colourings of the wool leaves slight shade variations from one batch to another, giving a true uniqueness to each garment. Naturally hard wearing and insulating, Ecology offers the perfect foundation for long lasting attire.

Walpole is the official sector body for UK luxury. Founded in 1992 as a not-for-profit organisation, it counts more than 250 British brands in its membership. As the voice of British luxury, Walpole’s purpose is to promote, protect and develop a sector worth £48 billion to the UK economy and the jewel in the crown of UK business.

We are honoured to be the only cloth merchant represented in the Walpole membership, which includes historic and revered brands such as Bentley, Royal Doulton, Harrods, and many more.

“With the world more focused on preserving itself than ever, it’s only natural that – in the fullness of time – each and every one of us will increasingly demand that the brands we buy from have an identity and a meaning beyond their products. And in a society which is, and will, become ever more environmentally conscious, producers have a social responsibility to limit their carbon footprint and encourage sustainability. To find out more, we spoke with Dugdale – purveyors of the highest-quality cloth to many British luxury brands…

This is the inspiration behind Dugdale Bro & Co’s Ecology collection, naturally eco-friendly cloth for your sartorial needs.

Using a blend of fleece from Jacobs and Black Welsh Mountain breeds, Dugdale have produced an undyed, pure new wool cloth which is 100% British, naturally scoured, spun, woven and finished in Huddersfield.

The selection of natural shades have been blended to create a collection of 21 classic patterns without any dyeing process. The colouring of the wool leaves slight shade variations from one batch to another, giving a true uniqueness to each garment.

In our last cloth spotlight, our Luxury Lambswool collection took centre stage – with its insulating and indulgent-feel properties. But with the warmer weather on the horizon, it seemed only right to feature a cloth that was originally developed back in the 1960s for the more humid Hong Kong, Singapore and Malaysian markets – Tropicalair.

Characteristics of Tropicalair

Originally a heritage range, we relaunched the collection in its two original variations – High Twist and Mockleno.

Superior spinning techniques mean this cloth is well revered for its versatility and unique composition. In addition, it’s a lightweight and high-performance fabric which lends itself well to summer blazers, suiting and jacketing options, especially for temperatures of the more tropical variety.

The uniqueness of this particular range, however, is undoubtedly rooted in the spinning. The Mockleno variation is woven on traditional looms using extra-fine, 2-ply Merino wool, and it’s this which creates the cloth’s characteristic open mesh finish. As a result, the intertwining warp and weft yarns work harmoniously to create a natural, elegant drape for the wearer, as well as superior breathability and comfort.

Meanwhile, as well as affording the same elegance and high-performance as its Mockleno counterpart, the new generation High Twist offers practical crease resistance and a cool open weave. Moreover, it’s a sartorial favourite among tailors looking for cloth which is both workable in the cutting room yet robust and reliable to wear.

Summer Suiting

These are two key facets which mean this cloth is perfect for summer suiting which is free from unwanted furrows – ensuring no compromise on style or sophistication – even when worn in high heat and humid conditions.

Available in a range of colourways and patterns – such as houndstooth, glen check and stripes – Tropicalair can be used to craft a vibrant statement piece or a more muted and contemporary garment. Consequently, this enables the wearer to channel their personality and stay cool at all times and temperatures.

In fact, our friends at Savile Row tailors Cad and the Dandy recently crafted a suit using this very cloth for our chairman Robert Charnock – perfect for the warmer weather that’s on the way.

For tailors and wearers across the globe, autumn and winter presents the ideal opportunity to wrap up and layer their bespoke garments, all the while showcasing sophistication and sartorial flair.

But these seasons take the form of different guises, depending on which country you’re in or visiting at the time – it’s therefore crucial that your clothing complements the climate to which it’s exposed.

From cashmere and merino wool, to soft flannel and tweed, there are plenty of ways to maintain a sharp look, that reflects not only the personal style of the wearer, but also the ever-changing styles and trends of the fashion world.

So – with this in mind – when highlighting some of the key AW textiles, the modern-day wardrobes of discerning gentlemen and women should be as versatile and varied as the cloths themselves. The fabrics detailed below have been chosen due to their innovative techniques in their construction, as well as the dynamic role they play in celebrating their Yorkshire provenance.

Royal Classic Vantage

Classic by name, classic by nature. The original Royal Classic collection was first introduced in 1957 and remains our most popular cloth today – a well-established sartorial staple famed for its supreme functionality and durability.

The Vantage collection, however, is a reworking of the well-established original, drawing inspiration for new patterns and colourways, while maintaining the high-quality reputation of the 1957 archives. But when looking deeper into what makes this 100% wool fabric so sought-after for AW tailoring, it has to be the tight weave, optimum sett, and clear-cut and crushed finishes.

The unique characteristics of this 12oz cloth make this an ideal textile choice for the crafting of winter staples, and despite being lighter in weight than its predecessor, it boasts a full, robust handle that promises insulation and climate-resilience.

Twist Travel Flannel

It’s no secret that flannels are highly regarded for their warmth and comfort during the periods of cooler temperatures, so if the weather isn’t cold enough for those heavyweight woollens, this particular collection is a sumptuous alternative, that still offers a high level of insulation.

These cutting-edge qualities also ensure shower, crease and stain resistance, as well as crease recovery – all of which are extremely practical advantages not commonly associated with this type of fabric.

Whether for a formal or casual occasion, there are undeniably many cloths to choose from when searching for the perfect foundation for statement AW apparel. However, what’s important to take into consideration is the level of warmth, durability and protection required, as this will help deduce which fabric will offer the suitable level of durability and warmth required.

If you’d like to find out more about any of the Dugdale Bros collections mentioned in this article, please contact our sales team.