When it comes to fashion, seasons can often dictate the direction of styles, trends and fabrics. And two seasons which truly lend themselves to the heavier-weighted and durable cloths are autumn and winter. Our MD, Simon Glendenning, recently shared his expertise with Twist, covering the unique characteristics and history surrounding a quintet of classic AW fabrics that have endured the years.
For tailors and wearers across the globe, autumn and winter presents the ideal opportunity to wrap up and layer their bespoke garments, all the while showcasing sophistication and sartorial flair.
But these seasons take the form of different guises, depending on which country you’re in or visiting at the time – it’s therefore crucial that your clothing complements the climate to which it’s exposed.
When transitioning between seasons, there shouldn’t have to be a compromise on style and elegance. From cashmere and merino wool, to soft flannel and tweed, there are plenty of ways to maintain a sharp look, that reflects not only the personal style of the wearer, but also the ever-changing styles and trends of the fashion world.
So – with this in mind – when highlighting some of the key AW textiles, the modern-day wardrobes of discerning gentlemen and women should be as versatile and varied as the cloths themselves. The fabrics detailed below have been chosen due to their innovative techniques in their construction, as well as the dynamic role they play in celebrating their Yorkshire provenance.
Royal Classic Vantage
Classic by name, classic by nature. The original Royal Classic collection was first introduced in 1957 and remains our most popular cloth today – a well-established sartorial staple famed for its supreme functionality and durability.
The Vantage collection, however, is a reworking of the well-established original, drawing inspiration for new patterns and colourways, while maintaining the high-quality reputation of the 1957 archives. But when looking deeper into what makes this 100% wool fabric so sought-after for AW tailoring, it has to be the tight weave, optimum sett, and clear-cut and crushed finishes.
The unique characteristics of this 12oz cloth make this an ideal textile choice for the crafting of winter staples, and despite being lighter in weight than its predecessor, it boasts a full, robust handle that promises insulation and climate-resilience.
One of our most sumptuous fabrics, Luxury Lambswool is a cloth that is sourced, woven and spun in the Huddersfield area – a town which has been at the nucleus of Yorkshire’s clothmaking industry for decades.
Given that it is woven from naturally insulating, 100% lambswool yarns, this bunch is designed purely for overcoating purposes – making it a wonderful choice for the cooler months. Its traditional weave and thickness – weighing in at 20oz – deliver an unparalleled level of warmth, comfort and softness, which intrinsically lends itself to the crafting of bespoke or made-to-measure AW coating attire.
The insulating properties of the fabric aren’t the only benefits when it comes to braving the lower temperatures though, any coat made from Luxury Lambswool affords a deluxe and indulgent feel.
The rich depth and weight of the material works effortlessly to create elegant coating apparel that is highly protective against the elements – without feeling too heavy or cumbersome – making it a firm favourite among tailors and wearers alike.
English and Town Classics
English and Town Classics was first woven in 1953 and is the winter-weight version of our Royal Classics collection. Having produced this cloth for over 60 years, it is deeply rooted in our illustrious clothmaking heritage, and remains a popular choice which combines durability and style.
What primarily makes these woollen cloths destined for the chillier climes of the AW months is their weight, produced using superfine Australian merino wool – available in a choice of crushed, semi-milled or full-milled finishing. Weighing in at 13-14oz, the ratio of comfort, durability and warmth is evenly distributed to create a premium-grade bunch that is perfect for jackets and suits.
White Rose Sporting Tweed and Tattersall
There’s no better time of year to don iconic tweed tailoring, than on crisp autumn and winter days. This particular collection was originally launched in the 1960s, but underwent a revamp in 2018, to bring it up-to-date with modern trends and tastes of the ever-evolving sartorial sphere.
The 22oz weighting and the Yorkshire-inspired spectrum of colourways make this cloth collection a go-to fabric for crafting durable outerwear that’s both stylish and protective. The composition of 100% British wool makes it a fully robust fabric that effortlessly shields its wearer from the unpredictability of the elements.
Offering a range of sartorially inspiring patterns and colour palettes – in check, overcheck, herringbone and windowpane weaves – this collection is evidence that there are no boundaries when it comes to tweed that is both fashionable and practical.
Twist Travel Flannel
It’s no secret that flannels are highly regarded for their warmth and comfort during the periods of cooler temperatures, so if the weather isn’t cold enough for those heavyweight woollens, this particular collection is a sumptuous alternative, that still offers a high level of insulation.
The plain weave – coupled with the milled nano-finish – makes this a lighter weight and highly breathable cloth. These cutting-edge qualities also ensure shower, crease and stain resistance, as well as crease recovery – all of which are extremely practical advantages not commonly associated with this type of fabric.
Whether for a formal or casual occasion, there are undeniably many cloths to choose from when searching for the perfect foundation for statement AW apparel. However, what’s important to take into consideration is the level of warmth, durability and protection required, as this will help deduce which fabric will offer the suitable level of durability and warmth required.